It’s 1 a.m. and you’re jolted awake by the sound of a trash can lid hitting the floor. You shuffle into your kitchen and there’s your cat perched on the kitchen counter — you swear she’s grinning at you. She lets out a howl, leaps to the floor, runs sideways, leaps into the air, and pounces on nothing with all her might. Your cat has been gripped by the “midnight crazies.”

The “midnight crazies” is a popular name for a cat’s behavior when she plays and roughhouses in short spurts in the middle of the night. The cat may entertain herself with wild activity or jump on your bed and paw at your feet, elbows, hair and face to get you to join in.

What motivates a cat to such boisterous and disruptive behavior? One theory is that the cat is simply practicing hunting methods, fighting maneuvers, and escape techniques.

“Cats in the wild are active at times when rodents come out, typically after dark,” says Sandy Myers, an animal behavior consultant with Narnia Pet Behavior Clinic in Naperville, Ill. “A cat naturally wants to spend her evenings hunting and playing predator games, even if she is a well-fed house pet.”

Another theory is that house cats become active at night simply because they aren’t getting enough play and exercise during the day.

“Many house cats spend the days alone and indoors while their owners are at work,” says Dr. Barbara Simpson, a board certified veterinary behaviorist with the Veterinary Behavior Clinic at Southern Pines, N.C. “When the owner comes home in the evening, the cat wants to play and will be very active.”

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Late-night activity is especially common in young cats with a lot of energy to spare, and in new kittens who simply do not know any better. “The kitten may have never lived with a human family before and not know that she is expected to sleep through the night,” Myers says. “She may also feel a little unsure of her new human family and be uncomfortable about living in unfamiliar surroundings.”

If your kitten is too anxious or nervous to lie down and sleep at night, you can help her feel more secure by sitting down with her for a while, holding her closely, and gently petting her. Some kittens are also comforted by a softly playing radio tuned to an all-night talk show or soft music station. Others are comforted by having a toy or blanket from their former nest so that the smell from that familiar place is present where they sleep. Once your kitten is soothed, put her in her own bed and praise her when she stays there.

Make sure you’re meeting your cat’s needs for play at appropriate times during the day and early evening. If you’re home during the day, take breaks with your cat by spending a few minutes tossing cat toys for her. Try to keep your cat busy and active so that she doesn’t sleep for too long during the daytime, at least until she is in the habit of sleeping at night.

If you’re away at work from 9 to 5, try to spend some time playing with your cat before you leave for work, and then have another play session after you get home in the evening. Have your last play session about an hour before you go to bed. “If you play a lot with your cat immediately before you go to bed, you will get her all charged up and she won’t be able to fall asleep,” Meyers notes.

Try to anticipate the mischief your cat might want to get into while you’re asleep and plan accordingly. Put garbage pails, kitchen glassware, lamp cords, computer keyboards, books, and clothing out of harm’s way before going to bed.

If your cat is especially boisterous or destructive at night, you may need to confine her to a spare bedroom or bathroom for the evening. Make sure your cat is in a big enough space so that she’s able to walk around. Provide food, water, a litter box, and scratching post in the same room. If your cat starts whining because she wants to come out, don’t give in. “If you do, you will be rewarding the cat for vocalizing and scratching at the door,” Simpson says. That means she’ll learn that she’ll get what she wants if she cries long enough.

If you allow your cat to sleep in your bedroom or have free reign of the house at night, you may want to have either a spray bottle or a gun-shaped hair dryer on hand so if your cat wakes you up with her meowing, you can just reach for the hair dryer and blast the cat with some air or water. “Doing so won’t hurt the cat, but will simply startle and discourage her from doing the same thing again,” Simpson notes.

Punish the specific action, and do it at the beginning of the behavior. “Then once the cat stops meowing in your face, you can then pick her up and snuggle,” Myers says. But don’t give any attention during the actual bad behavior. “Sometimes pet owners pick up the cat while she is saying ‘meow’ and in effect they are just reinforcing the meowing,” Meyers says.

Keep in mind that it’s unrealistic to think your cat should sleep all night if you haven’t taught her to do so or if you haven’t met her need for play during other times in the day. Remember, cats need recreation and sleep, just as humans do. The trick is coordinating your schedules so both you and your pet can be happy.

Cats have overtaken dogs as America’s No. 1 pet and, in a fast-paced society like ours, it’s easy to see why. Cats are more independent, do better when left alone, and require less time-consuming care than dogs. But, like their canine counterparts, domestic cats come with their own set of natural behaviors that can confuse and inconvenience owners.

The most common kitty complaints have to do with inappropriate litter box habits, furniture scratching, and aggression. Most of these problems stem from normal feline behaviors and, fortunately for cat owners, most can be resolved or prevented. A little patience, and enough understanding to allow you to see the situation from your cat’s point of view, can foster a long and rewarding life with your feline friend.

Since most cats prefer to eliminate in private, put litter boxes in places that are easily accessible but away from heavy foot traffic. Recesses or the corners of rooms are suitable locations. Position the litter boxes away from your cat’s feeding or bedding area to avoid sending mixed signals.

Cats generally are fastidious creatures that groom themselves meticulously and bury their bodily waste. Show your kitten a litter box, demonstrate how to scratch in the litter, and she’ll generally get the picture pretty fast.

You can be sure that your cat prefers his or her litter box to be clean and fresh. Scoopable litters are preferred by most cats. Both urine and feces should be scooped from the litter box daily and the entire litter box contents should be changed periodically. Clean the box with warm, soapy water and rinse it thoroughly. A litter box liner may help reduce cleaning time but may deter some cats from using the box.

There are a variety of litter materials available, including clay litters and those made from plant materials. Some cats will refuse to use certain litter material while others have different preferences for urination and defecation. Find out what works best for your cat.

Keep one suitably sized box for each cat, plus an extra litter box. If your kitten is still very small, make sure that the litter box is not too deep so that she can easily climb in and out. Once your kitten is larger, you can switch to a deeper box to prevent her from tracking litter around your house. If the litter box is too small, your cat might be reluctant to use it or, if she does, she might urinate over the edge, missing the box.

There are covered boxes as well as open ones. If you use a covered box, make sure your cat can get in and out easily. The best covered boxes also have overlapping seams, so that any urine sprayed inside the box will not leak out. But remember, some cats will not use covered litter pans, or even open pans that sit beneath closely hanging objects such as brooms or mops.

If your cat begins to have litter box mishaps, the first step is to see your veterinarian so that he or she can rule out any medical problems that may be contributing. Once a clean bill of health is confirmed, your veterinarian will be able to advise you about the treatment of this behavioral problem.

Cats’ instinctive urge to scratch and claw has ruined many a couch and stereo speaker and has created a market for declawing surgery. Some simple advice based on normal feline scratching behavior will help protect your furniture and allow your cat to remain whole.

Scratching removes the nail sheaths, outer layer of dead cells, from the claw. It also serves as a visual and olfactory territorial marker. Cats naturally claw trees and prominent objects in their territory. If they’re not provided with an adequate surface in the house, they’ll choose their own, so it’s best to provide attractive scratching posts – attractive to the cat that is. Scratching posts made with sisal rope covering are best; rug coverings are pretty, but not as effective. Scratching posts should be tall enough for the cat to stretch to full height and should be stable. Short, wobbly posts are no good.

The scratching post can be introduced to your cat through play. The cat should be praised and rewarded for scratching on the post. If he uses another surface, he should receive an immediate, mild punishment, such as loud handclap or loudly exclaimed, "No!"

Most common types of aggressive behavior involve play rehearsals of adult roles. Play can include predation or stalking and fighting. A young cat may hide in a corner and then stalk, chase, and pounce on a person or another cat. Kittens normally play with each other, with their mother, and with a variety of moving objects. If none of these is available, they will direct their attention toward human arms and legs as the next best thing.

It’s important to teach kittens an acceptable way to play right from the start. If possible, take home two kittens so they can play with each other. If this is not feasible, then directing the kitten’s attention to “fun” toys, such as long strings (don’t let your kitten swallow them) or ping-pong balls, will help minimize those secret ambushes.

Many people misinterpret play as a sign of serious aggression. Playful cats “attack” silently and do not typically break the skin when they bite. Seriously aggressive and potentially dangerous cats often hiss or growl and will bite more severely. Using a water spray bottle for self-defense is sometimes helpful. Hitting a cat is not recommended since it often causes a defensive reaction, may lead to further aggression, and is inhumane.

Although kittens are known to be quite fastidious, they may need some assistance in keeping themselves clean. Grooming sessions provide good quality time for you and your cat. They also allow you to do a quick health check on your kitten.
You should begin grooming your kitten soon after taking her home. This allows you to familiarize yourself with her particular features – those that make her uniquely different from other kittens – and to learn what is normal for your pet. A simple grooming regimen will also get her used to being handled so, if she needs treatment later in life, it won't be a traumatic experience for either of you.

What to Groom



It’s best to groom your kitten using a brush with fine, relatively stiff bristles, such as a wire brush. She'll get used to the brushing and actually learn to enjoy it. If she goes outside, place an old white sheet on the table and groom her there. This will allow you to see what falls off her. Mostly you’ll see hair, dead skin, plant particles and dirt. But you’ll also be able to see if she’s picked up some fleas or ticks. Flea dirt will fall off onto the sheet. These are little black specks of flea excrement that turn reddish if a drop of water is added. Your veterinarian will have the proper treatments.

Longhaired kittens should be groomed as often as possible. When knots start to develop, it’s almost impossible to get your kitten's fur back in order. Her fur may become so matted that a visit to your veterinarian or professional groomer may be necessary for a whole-body clipping. Never attempt to cut knots or matted hair since it’s very easy to get your kitten's skin caught in the scissors. Toenails. Trimming toenails can be confusing as well as difficult. Trimming toenails should be done with the proper instruments. There are a variety of nail trimmers available at pet stores or your veterinarian’s office. Human nail trimmers or scissors generally do not work on dogs and cats.

Your kitten has claws for a reason (defense), although they certainly weren't intended for ripping up furniture. Get her used to getting her claws clipped early in life. Have your veterinarian show you how when you go for her first vaccinations. Approach your pet when she’s relaxed, and clip only one nail per session. Be careful not to cut to the quick. Trim regularly, to discourage her from scratching the furniture. Providing her with a sturdy, rough scratching post will decrease the need for clipping because the old claws will shed while your kitten scratches. It will also decrease the likelihood of having her use your new leather sofa as a scratching post.

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Thunderstorm Phobia in Cats Few species – including humans – are happy to endure the sounds of a rip-roaring thunderstorm, complete with darkening skies, lightning and crashing thunder. Some become extremely fearful to the point that they exhibit full-blown phobia.
Some dogs and cattle, as well as some humans, are affected by this phobia. Other creatures, like cats, are probably far from comfortable but most don’t seem to become overtly storm phobic – although there are some notable exceptions.

Before considering the specifics of thunderstorm phobia in cats, it is worth emphasizing that fear is a normal response to a fear-inducing situation or circumstance. Phobias are extreme, irrational fears in which the fearful response has been magnified to the point of dysfunction. It is reasonable, and biologically sensible, to be a little uneasy during a lightning storm - to avoid open spaces and seek cover. But when an animal gets completely distraught at the first roll of thunder and perhaps harms itself in frenzied attempts to avoid the perceived mortal threat, then we are talking about phobia. Cattle that become spooked and stampede off a cliff, and dogs that hurl themselves out of third story windows, illustrate this point.

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So where do cats fit into this paradigm and why? Many cats, quite sensibly, tend to become nervous during storms and remove themselves from the fray by hiding under beds or in cupboards. This self-preservation response qualifies as fear. Unlike dogs, however, cats tend not to advance to the phobic stage, perhaps because their strategy of avoidance works. They hide; the storm passes; they emerge unscathed.

Dogs often start out sensibly, too. Dogs that eventually become phobic often show fear in the first year or two of life but, at this stage, the fear is only mild to moderate. They may pace anxiously and seek their owner’s company - for protection. But then they may have a sudden augmentation of their fear of storms a few years later - for no apparent reason. I hypothesize that this augmentation may occur because injury is added to the insult of the storm, specifically, that they may be subjected to a particularly loud clap of thunder or receive a painful static shock during a severe electric storm. The aversive event confirms and magnifies dogs’ suspicions of the danger implicit in storms.

Large, thick-coated dogs are most commonly affected by severe thunderstorm phobia lending some credence to the static electricity theory. By comparison, cats and small, thin-coated dogs are somewhat immune. Cats usually prefer to hide rather than pace and explore escape routes, so exposure to potential danger is minimized. Some dogs learn to stay in a safe place during storms – though often not until the phobia is well entrenched.

Full-blown thunderstorm phobia is uncommon in cats but it does sometimes occur under certain unusual circumstances. One cat became storm phobic because she received an electric jolt from a nearby telephone jack (the result of a secondary lightning strike) while on a countertop. During future storms, the cat hunkered down, hair coat raised, tail all bushy, and hissed and spit. This would not be a good time to pick the cat up to comfort it for fear of redirected aggression.

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Signs of Thunderstorm Fear/Phobia in Cats

- Usually mild - large pupils, hiding, anti-social.
- Rarely severe - feline affective defense response. Large pupils, hair coat raised, tail bushy, body hunkered down and tense, hissing and spitting.

Treatment

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Conclusion

Though many cats are fearful during storms, thunderstorm phobia in cats is rare. A computer search of the scientific literature produced no results when the key words thunderstorm phobia, noise phobia, and cats were cross-referenced. So, while it is unlikely that you will find your cat pacing and howling during a storm, you may well notice that it just isn't around. If you search for your cat you may find it under your bed, perhaps anxiously grooming. Does this mean it's frightened? Absolutely! But is this phobia? Not really. Although you can just leave scaredy cats alone, it is more humane to condition them out of their fear through the use of delicious food treats. The way to a cat's heart is through its stomach - and that maxim applies just as well when its knees are knocking as it does at other times.

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Kittens bounce off walls, propel themselves through the air and pounce at warp speed toward anything that moves, especially toys. The only time they seem to slow down is to wash their faces after a satisfying meal. Food supplies necessary nutrients. Meeting your kitten’s nutrient needs is important to provide for her rapid growth rate and boundless energy.

Your Kitten’s Growth

At birth, she weighs about 3 ounces (100 grams) and gains about 1/2 ounce (15 grams) each day. By 10 weeks of age, she’ll weigh more than 2 pounds (1 kilogram), a tenfold gain in 10 weeks. Although males and females grow similarly at first, males begin to outweigh females by 10 weeks of age. Males tend to increase in weight until about 11 months of age, about four to eight weeks longer than female kittens do. The growth for both sexes is rapid at first, through about six to seven months of age. Males continue at this pace until about nine months of age, leaving their sisters behind.

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The Feeding Regimen

Right from birth, food is critical. On mom’s milk up to weaning at around ten weeks of age, your kitty will begin to eat solid food at about three to four weeks of age. At this time, with few teeth and a tender tummy, a soft meat-based (canned food) diet is more easily consumed.

When Weaning Ends

After weaning, a balanced complete diet provides all the nutrients (energy, protein, vitamins, minerals) in proper proportion and amount. Though foods specially formulated for kittens are more nutrient-dense, a diet for “all stages” (one that can be fed to kittens and adults) may be fed as well. Both diets will provide for the increased demand of your kitten’s growth. Although your kitten requires the entire complement of nutrients, calcium, phosphorus, zinc, vitamin A, vitamin D, thiamine, essential fatty acids and taurine are especially important. For example, a diet that’s otherwise sufficient but deficient in one nutrient, such as zinc, can result in poor growth, dermatitis (skin lesions) and other deformities.

It Has to Taste Good

Your kitten should eat well as long as the food is tasty. Palatability is based on aroma, texture and taste. If your kitten is fed a variety of flavors, she’ll probably be a less-selective eater as an adult. As your kitten matures, a complete and balanced dry food may be fed in addition to canned food. Feeding should be consistent, not switching back and forth, to avoid digestive upset or diarrhea. It isn’t essential to offer a variety of food types, though feeding canned and dry is fine, as long as it is palatable and sufficiently eaten to provide enough nutrition. For younger kittens, ease of eating is important; a soft diet or small pieces is best. To make it easier to consume, dry food may be moistened with warm water.

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Beware of "Adults Only"

Specially formulated kitten foods are higher in protein and energy density. Dry kitten foods contain about 35 percent protein, have a higher fat content, about 12 to 24 percent, and are about 25 percent higher in calories than adult dry cat foods. If a food is labeled “100 percent complete and balanced for all life stages,” it’s okay to feed to your kitten. Don’t feed him a food labeled for “maintenance” (adults only).

Can You Overfeed?

At a very young age, up to three to four months, it’s almost impossible to overfeed him. At 10 weeks of age, your kitten needs 250 kilocalories of energy per kilogram of body weight per day or about two and a half to three ounces of dry food, or eight to nine ounces of canned food. At four to six months of age, your kitten’s daily requirement for energy is about 100 to 130 kilocalories per kilogram of body weight, closer to that of an adult cat (70 to 80 kcal/kg body weight), as growth of body tissues slows down. Between eight months to a year of age, most kittens reach adult body size and weight. The daily food requirement at adulthood is about 1 ounce of canned food or one half ounce of dry food per pound of body weight.

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Has Your Kitten Lost His Appetite?

As your kitten plays, your concern for his food needs is primarily for a good quality, balanced diet. Consult your veterinarian with any concerns; however, if your kitten is playfully frisky, you and he are doing just fine. If your kitten doesn’t eat for 48 hours, consult your veterinarian. If symptoms such as vomiting, diarrhea or fever accompany a lack of appetite, see your veterinarian immediately. In these cases, lack of water intake or dehydration (excessive water loss) is more critical than lack of food consumption.

Nutrient Needs

In comparison to other animals, as true carnivores, the cat and kitten have unique nutrient needs. Since they’ve evolved as meat-eaters, many of these needs are associated with their meaty diet, not obtainable from plant sources. Their requirement for a higher protein level, pre-formed vitamin A, niacin, essential fatty acids and taurine are based on this fact. They cannot convert carotene to vitamin A. They get it naturally from the organ meats of prey. Similarly, cats cannot metabolize niacin from tryptophan (an amino acid); they can use only essential fatty acids from animal fat sources and need taurine from muscle tissue.

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If you’re taking home a new kitten who has captured your heart, you will certainly need one important accessory — a litter box. Hmmm, the mysterious litter box — knowing which one to get and what to do with it does not come naturally to the average pet owner. Here’s what you need to know.

How many?

You should always have one more litter box than you have cats. That is, one cat gets two litter boxes. Two cats get three. If you have a two-story home keep one litter box on each floor.

How big?

The litter box should be roomy enough for your cat to turn around in it. Forget about trying to get a small litter box to minimize the unsightliness. You have a cat. Your friends will have to understand. If the box is too small, your cat simply won’t use it and will eliminate elsewhere. But if the litter box is too big, you may also have a problem, especially if you have a very small kitten. Don’t buy a huge box and expect your kitten to scale it every time she has to “go to the bathroom.” Buy a smallish litter box for your kitten and invest in a larger one as she grows.

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To cover or not to cover

That is the question. There are covered litter boxes as well as open ones. If you use a covered box, make sure your cat can get in and out easily. The best types of covered box also have overlapping seams so that sprayed urine will not leak out. Remember, though, that many cats hate being enclosed when they are at their most vulnerable. They often like to see who’s coming and going, in case they need to beat a hasty retreat. And cats really don’t like surprises so if their boxes are covered they may not use them.

Location, location, location

A cardinal rule of cat ownership is to never put your cat’s litter box next to her food bowl or bed. Cats do not like to eliminate where they eat or have their nest. If you place a litter box too close to a cat’s nest, she may well pick a more comfortable spot, such as behind the couch, far away from her resting and dining area.

Put the litter box in a quiet low-traffic area, such as in a spare bathroom. A corner location is better than out in the open because a cat needs to feel secure. If your cat has only got two directions to watch instead of four – and feels she has an escape route – she’ll be more relaxed. Additionally, some cats are nervous and don’t like things too close to them. Even a hanging plant that blows in the breeze or casts shadows can prompt your cat to search for a different location.

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If you have more than one cat, remember that cats are territorial and hierarchical. So, put their boxes far enough apart to be sure that territorial issues don’t come into play if one invades the other’s space.

What kind of litter?

Cats, by nature, dig and scratch in soft soil out of doors, often burying their waste. The litter you provide substitutes for the dirt outside. The big question is: What is the best material to use? There are a number of litter materials to choose from, including clay-type litters and those made from plant materials. Some cats will refuse to eliminate on certain substrates while others prefer different materials for urination and defecation. It’s all a matter of taste — both yours and your cats. Does your cat prefer fine sand or chunky pellets? Do you prefer clumping or non-clumping litter? Do you prefer a litter that’s ecologically friendly? Is tracking or odor control your most important concern? Either way, there’s probably a litter to suit.

Clay is a good absorbent of moisture and odor and a reasonable substitute for fresh soil from the yard. Large granular clay, though economical and absorbent, is often dusty and tracks about the house. Small granular “clumping” litters (also made of clay) have become popular recently due to their excellent absorbency, clumping properties - which lead to the formation of firm balls when moistened - and their ease of disposal. These litters also make litter boxes easier to keep clean.


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Environmentally friendly litters are often made of recycled waste products, such as newspaper. They can also be made of biodegradable material, including wheat, corn and wood chips that break down easily in landfills. Some of these litters have the consistency of fine sand while others come in pelleted form. But how do you choose? You may not like the dust of fine litter and your cat may not like the extra work of covering stool with, what amounts to, small rocks. Some choices can be tough.

Silica gel litters have become increasingly popular. These clear plastic beads are neat to look at and absorb odor well. When your cat urinates in the box adorned with these litters you can actually hear a snap, crackle and pop as the beads soak up the liquid. This litter is good for extended periods, about 3 to 4 weeks in most instances. But remember, the litter can only hold so much moisture and must be changed eventually. Also, the beads have a tendency to bounce around the room once they are knocked out of the box.

Once you find a litter your cat likes, stick with it. Don’t buy whatever is on sale this week. Cats are very particular and litter changes can lead to unwelcome modifications in bathroom habits.

How often should I change litter?

Try to remove feces and moistened litter daily. Regular scooping will keep the box from becoming an odor source for your home and maintain it as an attractive place for your cat. Depending on the buildup of soiled litter and odors, completely clean out the box and replenish it with fresh litter every so often. When changing the litter, you should wash the box with warm, soapy water, but remember to rinse it thoroughly before refilling it with litter. And never, clean the box with harsh chemicals, as doing so will likely cause your cat to turn his nose up what will be perceived as an olfactory repugnant offering.

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Cats are curious critters, and, once you bring your cat home, she will want to explore every inch of your house. Like a small child, your cat will get into things she shouldn't unless you keep potentially harmful objects out of reach. Like child-proofing for a toddler, cat-proofing your home is vital to your cat's safety and well being.

Household Hazards



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Potential Poisons



No house is 100 percent safe, but you can reduce the risk to your cat and create a cat-friendly environment by vigilantly keeping potential hazards at a minimum.

Your kitten is so cute and adorable – she could never do anything wrong. Or could she? Some kittens can be feline terrors, leading you to question your decision about bringing a kitten into your home. Before finding a new home or banishing your cat to the perilous outdoors, consider learning about the problem, how to deal with the behavior, and re-train your pet. With proper know-how, your cat can be a loving and playful member of the family, providing hours of amusement. The best way to deal with behavior problems is to avoid them in the first place. Learn the best way to socialize and introduce your new kitten to your home. If you are adopting an orphan kitten, be aware that they have their own set of issues.

Here are a few behavioral problems that you might encounter:

Even though they have a reputation for being independent and self-sufficient, some cats develop behavior problems or bad habits that demand attention. Before finding a new home for your cat, or banishing it to the perilous outdoors, consider learning what is causing the problem, how to deal with the behavior, and how to re-train your pet. With proper know-how, your cat can once again be a loving and enjoyable member of the family. Once you understand what is underlies your cat’s behavior and realize what is needed to correct the problem, you are well on your way to keeping your family intact.

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Delivering and caring for a new litter can be an overwhelming task for any mother. Even though your cat will probably do a great job caring for her babies, there are some things you can do to help maintain a litter and keep them healthy.

Warm Environment

In the first few weeks of life, kittens are unable to maintain their body temperature. Usually, they snuggle up to their mother to provide heat support. You can assist by keeping the queening box in an 85 to 90 degree Fahrenheit environment for the first 5 days of life. Electric bulbs suspended far away from curious noses of the babies or mother or well insulated heating pads work well.

From day 5 to 10, slowly reduce the temperature to around 80 F. Continue to slowly reduce the temperature until, by the end of the fourth week of life, the environmental temperature hovers around 75 F.

Keeping the babies warm is essential. Chilling can result in serious illness or even death.

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Clean Environment

The queening box needs to be cleaned every day. Use newspapers or easily laundered towels or blankets. Change the bedding daily. The mother will try to keep the area clean but that can be a difficult chore, especially with large litter. She will also take care of the elimination needs of her babies by frequently cleaning and licking their genital areas.

Healthy Environment

Making sure the babies are healthy and growing can be difficult unless they are frequently monitored. During the first few weeks of life, weigh each baby once a day. Record their weights and make certain that each baby is steadily gaining weight. The weight changes will be in ounces so, although their growth won’t be rapid, it should be steady.

After the kittens' eyes have opened and the kittens can stumble around, offer them small amounts of moistened kitten food. They will probably walk through the food and be a bit messy, so bathing may be required after each feeding.

Signs of Problems

Through daily monitoring, illness can be detected and treated early. Any kitten that is losing weight or is not consistently gaining weight needs medical attention. Continuous crying also indicates a problem. If the mother is neglecting selected babies, those babies need your help to survive – you may have to remove the neglected babies and hand raise them. Some mothers instinctively know if a baby is not thriving. She will not spend her energy caring for these babies and will abandon them. You should be aware that these babies may not survive, no matter how well you care for them.

If you notice any problems or abnormalities with the babies, a veterinary examination is strongly recommended. Prompt diagnosis and treatment of illness will give each baby the best chance at survival.

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