Your cute adorable puppy loves new experiences. This is the time to get your pup used to bathing. If you wait too long to introduce him to soap and water, you may end up bathing an unwilling and uncooperative dog – and end up all wet.

Here are a few tips to make the ritual of the bath more enjoyable, or at least tolerable, for the both of you. With some patience and practice, your dog, rather than you, will get the lion's share of the bath. As time goes on, your pup will eventually tolerate, and may even enjoy, a periodic dip in the tub.

To Bathe or Not to Bathe

The first step is to consult your veterinarian about your particular pooch. Different breeds and lifestyles will dictate when it is safe to begin bathing your pup and what sort of pet shampoos work best. Never wash your dog outside if the weather is cold. This is particularly true for puppies, who have trouble regulating their body temperatures. Puppies should be at least four weeks old before they receive their first bath.

Start Slowly

First get your puppy used to the tub or bathing area. Place him in the tub and offer a treat. Make it a fun experience. Don’t start running the water or getting your puppy wet. Let him think this is just a happy place to be.

Then, begin to wipe your puppy with a wet towel while he is in the tub. Still offer treats and make it a fun experience. If you are getting frustrated, quit and start over later.

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After your pup is used to the wet towel, pour some water over your pup from a pre-filled bucket. Once he is used to this, it is safe to begin bathing as you would an adult dog.

Be Prepared

Before you tackle your dog, you'll want to go through a pre-bath checklist. Prepare the bathing area out of your dog's presence. There's no point in warning him ahead of time; he'll only get anxious.

Here are some items you'll want to have on hand:


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Before bathing, comb and brush out all mats. Otherwise, the water will turn the mats into solid masses, which will require clippers to remove. If your dog's hair is matted with paint, tar or some other sticky material, trim with clippers or soak the area with vegetable or mineral oil for 24 hours. (You may want to speak with a professional groomer if the tangles are difficult.)

Now it's time to prep your dog. Put a drop of mineral oil in the eyes to protect them from suds. Some people use cotton balls in the ears. If you use cotton balls, make sure they're the right size for your dog's ears; if they're too small, they may slip down the ear canal.

If you're using a tub, fill the water to the level of your dog's knees. The water should be about his temperature; around 102 degrees Fahrenheit.


The Bath

Bring your dog into the tub. If you have a bathing tether, attach one end to his collar and the suction cup to the bathtub. Ladle the warm water over him. If you use a spray, use it on low and hold it gently against his coat so the spraying action doesn't scare him. When he's thoroughly wet, apply the shampoo on his back and work it gently through the coat for about 10 minutes. Be careful not to get soap in his face or mouth. Use the washcloth or sponge to clean and rinse his face, and the soft brush to clean the paws, between toes and on nails.

When you're ready to rinse, don't forget to drain the tub first. The rinsing cycle, by the way, is very important. You want to do it twice to make sure all the soap is rinsed off. Leaving soap on the dog can cause an allergic reaction.

If necessary, drain the tub again so your dog isn't standing in water while he dries. Now, you'd better back up; your dog has been waiting to shake off the excess water since you began.

Gently squeeze out excess water (don't forget to remove the cotton from his ears) and finish drying him with the towels. If you use a hair dryer, keep the heat and blow force on low. Remember to dry the ears with cotton balls to prevent infection.

Keep your dog away from any drafts until his coat is completely dry.

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Crate Training Your Puppy

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You’re standing in the pet store and there they are: row after row of crates, just big enough for a dog. They’re made of fiberglass or plastic or just plain open wire. For all their differences, they evoke just one thought: Jail.

Not so fast. Despite their appearance, crates can be a boon for a puppy – a home-away-from-home or a comfortable retreat for when the rest of the family gets to be too much. Also, crates are great tools for housetraining because dogs don’t like to soil their immediate environment. In addition, for car travel, inside a crate is probably the safest place for a puppy to ride, and, for pups that have to fly cargo, crates provide a touch of the familiar on the plane.

Making Pups Comfortable With the Crate

First, make sure you don’t isolate your pup when he’s in his crate. Buy two crates, and put one in your bedroom – so he can sleep beside you at night – and the other in a busier part of the house for daytime use. Line the crate with a soft blanket, put in some small treats, and then show the puppy how to get in.

Once your puppy has figured out how to go in and out of his crate, and has satisfied his curiosity about it, use a cue word – such as "kennel," as he moves toward the crate, and hand him a treat as soon as he enters. Repeat this several times at random intervals until he goes in when he’s told to. At this point, you can shut the door for short periods, without making a big fuss about it. In fact, it’s best to ignore your pup while opening or shutting the door.

Once your puppy is willing to rest in the crate, start confining him for varying periods of time, and at different times of the day, while you’re at home. The more random and persistent you are, the less the dog will worry when you do have to leave the house. With this kind of routine, your puppy will learn to rest while crated, and that's exactly the way you want him to feel – at home, relaxed and comfortable in his own little den.

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Learning to Love the Lockup

Occasionally you may want your pup to be in his crate when he wants to be out. Don’t try to fool him, by calling him to you and then forcing him into the crate. Instead, use a command like: “Go to your crate,” and lure him in with a little food. Hand over the treat as soon as he settles down inside the crate, and praise him and keep feeding him while he’s inside. The minute he ventures out, turn off the food supply – and the charm.

Put a few pieces of kibble in the crate so the pup will develop the habit of going into the crate by himself, earning more praise and even more treats. Sooner or later, he’ll learn that he gets lots of attention, affection and goodies inside the crate – and very little in the way of treats outside the crate.

By the way, never put your pup in his crate for misbehavior “time-outs”/punishment. Using a crate in this way will render it aversive and therefore less useful as a behavioral management tool.

The Crate and House-training

To confine an untrained dog for a long time is to court disaster. If the pup is forced to soil in his crate, the crate will no longer inhibit his elimination there and will be of no help when you wish to employ it for house training.

Basically, house-training a dog is solving a spatial problem: You want to teach the dog to eliminate only in one place – outdoors. During the training period, it’s up to you to set limits. For example, if you don’t allow your pup free access to the living room and bedrooms, he can’t make a mess on the carpets there.

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Because most puppies can’t control their urine and feces for extended periods, the most important part of any house-training program is setting up and sticking with a schedule that your puppy can maintain. Feed him at consistent times of the day and watch his natural schedule: Puppies usually need to eliminate shortly after waking up, after eating, and after playing. Young puppies may need to urinate every four hours.

When your pup eliminates in a designated area, praise and reward him immediately and play with him. People usually reward their pup for urinating outside only after they have brought him back indoors: This is a mistake because it rewards the pup for coming inside, not for eliminating outside. Instead, keep a few treats in your pocket and hand them out on the spot.

If your pup repeatedly messes inside his crate, take him to your vet to rule out medical problems, such as intestinal parasites and urinary-tract diseases.

If you need to be away from home for a few hours, hire a dog walker to take the puppy out, or enclose your pup in a large pen to provide him with an opportunity to eliminate away from his resting spot. Leave newspaper or training pads down in one area when you are gone - but pick them up once when you’re home.

Punishment after the fact doesn’t work. If an “accident” happens, clean it up with a good enzymatic cleaner and blame yourself: You’re the one who wasn’t supervising the pup at the time the “accident” occurred. If you catch your dog in the act of eliminating indoors, make a loud noise to distract him, and then take him outside right away.

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Dogs with separation anxiety will often urinate, defecate, or bark when confined. In fact, some dogs become so anxious when confined that they destroy their crates and hurt themselves in the process. These dogs may do better when confined in a larger area, but if the problem still persists, see your vet or check with a veterinary behaviorist.

Picking a Crate

Crates come in different styles and sizes. Prices range from about $75 to $175. A comfortable crate should be about twice the size of your pup. The most common types are the pressed fiberglass models favored by airlines and the open-wire cages that are available at most pet stores. Fiberglass kennels are the most sturdy and the safest for traveling in a car or airplane.

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Dental Care For Dogs

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After learning all about the importance of keeping their pet's teeth clean during Pet Dental Month (in February), many owners want to start their pets on the road to good dental health right away.

Good dental hygiene starts with a healthy mouth, which is why owners should have their dog's teeth and gums checked by their veterinarian. At home, it is important to remember not to use human toothpaste or baking soda. Both can make a dog sick. There are different products available to clean your pet's teeth, including toothpastes, gels toothbrushes, treats and diets, that can help prevent the buildup of plaque and tartar. Deciding on which one to use often depends on the temperament and age of your dog or cat.

Starting off pets when they are young is the best way to get them to accept regular teeth cleaning. Dental care can begin around 3 or 4 months of age. You can get your puppy used to having his teeth cleaned by gently rubbing and massaging his gums with a finger wrapped with gauze. For detailed information on brushing, see the story How to Brush Your Dog's Teeth.

Finger Brushes, Toothbrushes and Gels

The next step to dental care is the finger brush. This small, thimble-like device uses soft bristles to clean under the gum line. The finger brush is placed over the index finger and circular motions help dislodge particles that can cause periodontitis, the most common ailment seen in dogs. The finger brush may prove to be less unnerving than a foreign object like a toothbrush. It is a good way to introduce your dog to regular brushing, and you may be able to graduate to a toothbrush.

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Toothbrushes for dogs are designed a little differently than a child's toothbrush. They are small and single-ended, and have an angled head suited more for a dog's mouth.

The pet toothpaste for both is designed with enzymes to prevent plaque from forming. Toothpaste comes in a variety of pet-pleasing flavors.

For dogs, there is beef, chicken and even peanut flavors.
However, some dogs absolutely refuse any sort of brush in their mouth. For these recalcitrant pets, oral hygiene gels can help maintain their teeth. Gels contain the enzymes found in toothpastes. Owners smear a little onto the gum surface with their fingers once every day, or they can mix a little with food. This will encourage salivation, which then covers the gums and teeth. The gel contains mild abrasives that help break down and prevent plaque.

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Treats and Formulated Diets

When it comes to teeth, certain types of dog food are better than others. Kibble dog food is hard and the grinding action serves to help reduce plaque and tartar buildup. Canned dog food, on the other hand, is soft and can cling to teeth and gums, encouraging plaque formation.

The Veterinary Oral Health Council recommends a number of diets and treats. The council evaluates commercial products to determine if they meet the standards necessary to control plaque and tartar in dogs and cats. The council is appointed by the board of directors of the American Veterinary Dental College, and reviews products that are submitted to them. Products that meet the standards are endorsed with the statement "Veterinary Oral Health Council (VOHC) Accepted®."

Here are four diets the council recommends:

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What Is Dental Tartar… And How Do I Prevent It?

Dogs and cats get most of the dental problems that we can get including dental plaque tartar, gum and tooth disease. First, lets understand the differences between plaque, tartar and periodontal disease and then we will discuss how to prevent them.

Plaque

Dental plaque is a sticky substance that covers the teeth consisting of bacteria, saliva, food particles and epithelial cells. Plaque builds up on the tooth surface and gum line every day. Left undisturbed the plaque can mineralize, or harden, in less than 2 days, forming calculus or tartar.

Tartar

Dental tartar is a film that covers teeth consisting of calcium phosphate and carbonate, food particles and other organic matter, or is basically ”mineralized plaque”. The tartar will stick to the tooth surface forming a scaffold for more plaque accumulation. The continued build-up of tartar both above and below the gum line can eventually produce an environment that is a haven for certain types of bacteria that may be more destructive to the periodontal tissues and also produce a more noticeable odor. This can lead periodontal disease.

Periodontal Disease

Periodontal disease, is a very common infectious disease caused by bacteria that make up plaque. This results in inflammation of the structures that support teeth, the gum tissue, periodontal ligament, alveolus (small cavity) and cementum (bonelike connective tissue covering the root of a tooth and assisting in tooth support). Symptoms of periodontal disease include bad breath, and red or inflamed gums. There are other signs of dental disease in your pet that may be more subtle. Dogs may preferentially choose softer foods; play with chew toys less and decline crunchy treats. You may notice your pet chewing more on side of his mouth. He may chew less in general and this sometimes causes the dog to vomit, seen as undigested, poorly chewed food. Increased salivation, pawing at or rubbing the face can be indications of oral pain.

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Periodontitis can be seen at almost any age and affects over 80 percent of dogs over three years of age. It is important to realize that some periodontal disease may not be visible to even the most experienced observer. Sometimes the bone around the teeth is lost faster than, or even without, gum loss. A complete periodontal examination, including dental X-rays, is necessary to uncover all types of periodontal disease. Such a comprehensive dental examination requires anesthesia. Larger breeds usually require once-a-year dental exams; smaller breeds twice a year. Complete exams are important to maintaining good dental health.

It is the leading cause of tooth loss and, in human dentistry; periodontitis is called the silent killer due to its destructive nature. The total impact is difficult to measure scientifically, but peridontitis is the number one source of the bacteria that causes aspiration pneumonia in humans. Small amounts of the same bacteria in periodontal disease are released into the bloodstream (bacteremia) when we chew or brush our teeth everyday. The significance of these events is not yet determined. Periodontitis causes tooth and bone loss, which can even lead to jaw fracture.

How Do You Prevent It?

That’s easy! Prevention is easy as daily brushing that will remove the plaque and prevent the tartar and eventual periodontal disease.

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Fear of Thunder, Sounds or Noises In Dogs

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At the first clap of thunder, your dog is suddenly missing in action, and you’re likely to find him in the far corner of the darkest closet or under the bed. Even if your dog is one of the so-called meanest breeds, he may sit trembling on your lap or at your feet when the thunder rolls.

Fear of thunder and other loud noises is not uncommon in pets. In the animal world, fear is a normal response to a threatening situation or aversive stimulus and is designed to protect the animal from harm. A phobia is a persistent excessive and irrational fear response. Fears and phobias can develop at any age and in any breed.

Fears, in general, can develop after a single frightening event or they can arise gradually over time. They are reinforced if the stimulus presentation is frequent. Dogs that are afraid of noise usually do not learn to tolerate the fear-inducing sounds. In fact, they often become more fearful with each exposure and the fear may generalize to include other similar sounds. For example, dogs that start out with thunder phobia may eventually become fearful of fireworks, cars backfiring, or sonic booms.

A fearful dog may seek human company, freeze, pace, pant, tremble, salivate, try to escape, hide or bark at the fear-inducing noise. In severe cases, dogs may even injure themselves in their attempts to escape.

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Diagnosis

A complete physical examination by a veterinarian is an important first step, not only to rule out medical problems that may exacerbate your dog’s fear, but also to verify that your dog is healthy. You may also consider consulting with a behaviorist.

In many cases of noise or thunderstorm phobia the diagnosis is obvious. However, if the noise occurs when you are away, you may come home to discover destruction, your dog on the loose, or signs of inappropriate elimination. Audio or video tape recordings can be useful in such cases to determine exactly what triggers the behavior problem.

Treatment

Treatment may be as simple as bringing your dog indoors, turning on the radio/television/fan/air conditioner (“white noise”), or providing a comfortable hiding place or “safe place.”

If your dog’s signs are more severe, a program of counter-conditioning and desensitization may be helpful. This involves replicating the noise by tape recording and then exposing your relaxed dog to the noise at low volume. You can then increase the volume gradually, taking care not to cause your dog to become fearful. A veterinarian or behaviorist can help you design an appropriate program.

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Desensitization to thunderstorms is difficult using this technique because other difficult-to-recreate stimuli are presently simultaneously in a real storm e.g. changes in barometric pressure, darkening skies, and perhaps even certain odors (ozone?). The real situation will often precipitate the phobic reaction even after desensitization using taped recordings.

Your dog’s veterinarian or veterinary behaviorist may also recommend anti-anxiety medication.

Home Care

If your dog’s fear is mild and the noise is infrequent, these simple techniques may be sufficient. However, don’t try to reassure your dog during a fearful event with petting, soothing words, or extra attention, as this can sometimes exacerbate the problem by reinforcing your dog’s fearful response. Also note that dogs are sensitive to peoples’ moods may be influenced by the way that you react to the noise. It is best to act happy and upbeat or to redirect your dog’s attention to some absorbing activity.

Try to anticipate your dog’s exposure to noises and avoid such exposure, if possible. Talk to your pet in a light, cheerful tone that sends a message that the storm is no big deal. Encourage your dog to find a quiet restful place to wait out the storm.

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How to Deal with a Chewing, Destructive Dog

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As most of us know, your dog can wreak havoc with its teeth. Whether the culprit is a young puppy exploring her environment, an energetic juvenile displacing pent up energy, or an adult dog acting out the distress of thunderstorm phobia or separation anxiety, a canine with a penchant for chewing can transform your valuable piano to splinters in a matter of hours.

Because the reasons for chewing are so diverse, it should be considered a sign or symptom of some underlying motivation rather than a diagnosis, per se. Before attempting to change your dog’s chewing behavior, it’s first important to understand just why she’s laying into your stuff .

Curiosity Propelled Chewing

Puppies and juvenile dogs learn about their environment by mouthing and gnawing on objects. Typically the targets are random, and may include shoes, books or bedposts. Investigational or “play-related” destructiveness of this kind is a normal behavior for a growing dog. Puppies seem to escalate such chewing behavior around teething time. Whether chewing more at this time facilitates dental eruption or simply reflects a response to irritation or discomfort is unclear.

The most expedient solution to play-related destructiveness is a dog crate. Ideally, your puppy should be acclimated to a crate from the first day in her new home. Also helpful for house-training, a crate limits your pup’s access to valuable items while allowing her to rest and chew at her leisure on appropriate items provided by you.

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When your puppy must be left alone for long hours, a crate’s too confining and among other things, may force your pup to stand or lie in her own urine or feces. Instead, when you have to leave your pup for a few hours, it is better to restrict your pup to a larger area, such as a kitchen, by means of a baby gate.

Contrary to popular belief, your dog won’t necessarily stop chewing when she’s grown to adult size. In fact, some of the most profoundly destructive chewers are young adults—not puppies. Sporting breeds (such as the Labrador retriever) are well known for this type of behavior. With room for individual differences, consider strategic restriction or crating for your dog at times when you can’t supervise her until she’s two years old.

Even then, introduce freedom only slowly and just for short periods. Well-designed “food-for-work” toys, which can be filled with biscuits or kibble, can keep your dog busy for hours.

Anxiety-related Chewing

Playful chewing is dog-years apart from the anxiety-based chewing of thunder-phobic dogs or dogs severely upset when “abandoned” by their owners each morning. In frenzied efforts to escape the house or find her owner, a dog of this persuasion will dig and chew at doorways, windowsills and curtains. She may also search for shoes, pillows, purses and other personal items to chew on. Unlike play-related chewing — which can happen whether or not you’re home — anxiety-related destructiveness is most likely to happen when your dog is alone.

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Because such dogs are already stressed, punishment or confinement (such as crating) isn’t advisable because it can make matters worse by increasing your dog’s anxiety. Separation anxiety is most easily identified by videotaping the dog right after you leave (a camera can be propped to focus on the door, for example). In most cases, an affected dog will start to whine or bark, dig, and even urinate or defecate within minutes of your departure.

If your dog suffers from thunder phobia, she can cause dramatic damage to your house on stormy days. In contrast to the destructiveness of separation anxiety, phobic behavior may be seen only once in a while. In addition to thunder, your dog may develop fears of fireworks, wind, and a variety of other noises.

Anxiety-related chewing is treated indirectly by addressing the anxiety itself; if you suspect this to be your dog’s reason for chewing, ask your veterinarian for help in addressing the problem. Most typically, a temporary anti-anxiety medication will be prescribed — along with a behavior-modification program — to help your dog feel less stressed and react more calmly when left alone or when exposed to storms.

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How To House-Train Your Puppy

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By using a puppy crate or confined area, and plenty of rewards for outdoor urination and defecation, you can train your puppy to “go” outdoors.

For many new puppy owners, house-training is the first order of business, after lots of cuddling. It is also the first hurdle encountered by new puppy owners. The good news is that, unless the new puppy was previously confined for long periods in dirty living conditions, she will naturally tend to avoid doing her "business" in places where she must sleep or eat. This instinct is important when it comes to house-training. It’s also one of the reasons for acclimating your puppy to a crate, or some other small area for times when she can’t be supervised.

How Long Can She “Hold It”?

Even young puppies can be expected to "hold it" for at least a short period of time. As a general rule, that can translate to one hour for each month of age, give or take an hour. For example, your 3-month old puppy might easily resist urination for three to four hours and should be fine in the crate for that short time.

Probably because she sleeps for much of the time, she’ll often learn to stay dry overnight before she can repeat her performance during the day. If it’s necessary to leave her for longish intervals, your puppy shouldn’t be crated. Instead, consider the use of a baby gate to confine her to a slightly larger area, such as the kitchen or laundry room. This will still allow her to maintain a natural cleanliness because she can eat and sleep away from the areas where she has soiled.

To ease cleanup and train your new pup to urinate and defecate on a specific surface, place newspapers in the previously soiled area. The use of newspapers, so-called paper training, can be avoided altogether if you can take your puppy outdoors frequently.

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Your Time - Your Responsibility

The best situation, of course, is to be home with your puppy, or at least to have a flexible schedule allowing home visits every few hours, until she’s housetrained. She should be taken outdoors to a designated "toilet" area every few hours but if you take her too often she may become confused about the purpose of the visits. Immediately after urination or defecation, reward her with a small food tidbit.

If the toilet visit is unproductive, go back indoors after just a few minutes and restrict the puppy in a crate, gated area, or even on a leash near you for 15 minutes and then try again. With persistence, she’ll quickly learn to associate that outdoor area with elimination. Once she has urinated and defecated outdoors, she can have freedom indoors for a short time, at least.

Don’t Punish Your Pup

Because punishment can be both mentally and physically harmful to your young puppy, it should not be used during house-training. If you catch your pup in the act, a simple handclap will distract her so you can quickly move her outdoors to finish the job. If a mess is found after the fact, punishment will only confuse her. Instead of scolding, try to figure out how to avoid the accident next time. For example, perhaps other family members can watch her more closely the next time you’re busy with dinner.

With some time, patience, and the help of a crate or confinement area, and with rewards for using the outdoor "bathroom," your puppy can be successfully trained to keep both her “den” and yours clean and dry.

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How To Puppy Proof Your Home

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Puppies are adorable and entertaining; they are awkward, playful and full of energy until they are suddenly in a deep sleep. But they can also be as troublesome as a toddler. They seem to get into everything and have a special power that enables them to find dangerous and potentially harmful objects. If you are getting a new puppy, make sure his new home is ready and safe before you bring him home.

Household Hazards



Outdoor Hazards


Potential Poisons



No house is 100 percent safe, but you can reduce risks by creating a dog-friendly environment. Be vigilant. Keep potential hazards at a minimum. Get down on the floor and look around at puppy eye level. See his world as he would see it to help make your pup’s new home safe.

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How To Teach Your Puppy To Walk On A Leash

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All dogs – whether they trot along Manhattan’s Upper East Side or run free in the countryside – should know how to walk on a leash.

Forget about fancy “heeling,” where the dog’s shoulder aligns perfectly with the dog-walker’s knee. We’re talking here about a simple partnership in which the dog and the person on the other end of the leash can get out together in the fresh air without a major struggle.

There are several ways to train a puppy to walk without pulling, but the common denominator, as in all training exercises, is simple: Appropriate behavior is rewarded while inappropriate behavior isn’t. In this case, walking without tugging is appropriate and pulling on lead isn’t.

The reward for walking properly is praise and the walk itself. So what about the negative aspect? How do you withhold a walk? The answer is to stop in your tracks whenever your puppy pulls and don’t start again until the leash slackens. Then, praise the pup and walk on. Then again, you can show your dog who’s the boss by walking in the opposite direction whenever he pulls. If he persists in pulling, you should tell him ``no,’’ but don’t make a fuss. It’s far better to praise him loudly and show affection when he lets the leash loosen up.

Most young puppies resist collars and leads by rolling, scratching and collapsing. But don’t give up. Don’t pick your pup up and carry him, and don’t let him just stroll along beside you without the leash. If you do, you’ll soon have an uncontrollable dog.

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Stepping Out

Buy a flat, lightweight nylon or leather buckle-style collar and a four or six-foot lead of the same material (chain leashes are generally a bad idea because of their weight).

Put the collar, without the leash, on the puppy, praising and rewarding him for any sign of acceptance and ignoring his efforts to wriggle out of it. Next, attach the lead and allow the puppy to drag it along, watching carefully to discourage him if he starts to chew it. With patience and some well-timed rewards, your pet may surprise you by how quickly he accepts his new appendage.

Finally, pick up your end of the lead and allow your dog to explore. After this introduction, however, even the youngest puppy’s impulses should be controlled to match your expectations.

Training collars are better for teaching older puppies and adult dogs. Probably the most efficient and humane passive training device is the head collar or head halter, with which even veteran people-yankers can quickly learn to walk nicely. In contrast, the “choke” collar is intended to constrict around the dog’s neck when tightened. Choke-type collars are frequently misused and work on the punishment principle. As the dog pulls, the handler is supposed to deliver a small “jerk” of the lead and then immediately release or loosen the lead. This way, you “correct” (or, more accurately, punish) the dog quickly and decisively. Many people assume a dog will teach himself by choking as he pulls. Countless animals have simply learned to live with this choking device as they tug along, coughing and irritated, but never learning to slow down. The humanity of using choke collars has recently come into question. They should never be used on puppies, toy breeds, or dogs with tracheal or other neck problems. A little knowledge, a lot of patience, and positive training go a lot further when training a pup to walk on lead and are a lot better for your relationship with the pup.

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Picking The Right Food For Your Puppy

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Your puppy needs good food and plenty of it. At this stage of his life, he’s not likely to pig out, but he needs a balanced diet to nurture his growing bones, teeth and muscle, to maintain his hair coat and allow for developing organs. He also needs enough energy to see him through days of strenuous playing.

Just Weaned and Above

If your puppy is newly weaned, he needs about twice the maintenance energy requirement of adult dogs. As your puppy ages, his need for higher nutrient density decreases. When he reaches 40 percent of his adult weight, he’ll require roughly 1.6 times as much as an adult dog; at 80 percent of adult weight, he’ll require 1.2 times as much. These estimates may be off by up to 20 percent, depending on individual dog variation

Feeding Puppies

Before he is weaned (at about two-and-a-half weeks of age), your puppy may begin to eat solid food three or more times a day. Start him on dry puppy food mixed with warm water and stirred into a gruel.

When he reaches seven weeks of age or so, start slowly decreasing the moisture content of the gruel-like mixture. When he’s about three months old, you can switch the pup to twice-a-day feedings of puppy food. Between eight and nine months, gradually mix the puppy food into an adult formula over several weeks time.

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How to Feed a Litter

Take the heaviest pup away when the food is first set out, to allow the smaller littermates a chance to eat. Put him back later, leaving him less eating time. Likewise, the mother dog should be removed for a short period or she’ll consume the entire portion before the puppies have had enough time to eat.

Baby Fat

During his first few weeks, your puppy should be on the roly-poly side. If he continues to look chubby between 10 and 13 weeks old, restrict his diet slightly. Monitor his weight and, once he reaches three and a half to four months, restrict his diet – not to make him lean, just to make sure he doesn’t get too fat. If you’re not sure his weight is right, check with your veterinarian.

At the five- to six-month period, depending on his breed, your puppy may have a dramatic growth spurt. He may get long, lean and a little thin. By the time he’s about one-and-a-half to two years of age, his body will catch up.

Puppy Diet vs. All Stages

Commercial puppy food is best. This kind of a diet provides all the nutrient he needs, especially his energy and protein requirements. A diet labeled for “all life stages” will also provide sufficient nutrients, but because it is closer to a maintenance level, your puppy will have to eat more “All Stages” than puppy formula.

From three weeks of age up to 20 weeks, your puppy’s growth rate is astronomical, and his food intake must keep up. During this period, medium-sized dogs, such as pointers and setters, require approximately 3 1/2 lbs. of dry food to put on one pound of body weight. Large breeds require slightly less, smaller breeds a little more.

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Note: For puppies of large or giant breeds, look for special foods of lower nutrient density. With these dogs, rapid growth can exacerbate degenerative hip problems or joint disease. Although hip dysplasia is a genetic problem, overfeeding at a young age can contribute to it.

Feeding Do's and Don'ts



Feed whatever amount is necessary to maintain a BCS of two during the growth period, realizing that dogs have varying growth rates and activity levels. Once his adult stature is achieved, you may allow him to reach a score of three.

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